Saturday 27th June
A couple of slightly disappointing days from a sailing perspective, but there were compensations.
Thursday started with a short sail, but the wind quickly died off and we motored about 60 miles to Lossiemouth under greyish skies and occasional rain showers. All a bit of a slog really, but we were then delighted by 'Lossie' itself which is a lovely small town with an amazing sandy beach which stretches into the distance - almost as far as the eye can see.
The forecast for Friday was much more promising, with Southeasterly Force 3 to 4 on the menu. Sadly the Clerk of the Weather had other ideas and again we had to motor. That said, the coastal scenery continues to be spectacular and quite varied. Multicoloured cliffs with green hills beyond and also sand dunes and mountains lit by watery sunshine.
And then (YES!) a small 'Minke' whale came to say hello. He stayed around for a short while and then dived away. Quite a welcome to the highlands.
Later in the day the rain and mist became heavier and we needed to resort to radar for our approach to Inverness though the Chanonry Narrows. The tides run hard here and it meant we had to take great care, but it was a great team effort and all went well. And then, just as we were running down the Firth, the clouds lifted and unveiled spectacular mountains all round us. Really lovely and exactly what we came for!
Debbie joins us today for the trip down the Caledonian Canal and beyond.
Saturday 27 June 2015
Wednesday 24 June 2015
Pastures Green
Pastures Green
Mark here - temporarily awarded the title of Sailing Master, though I've yet to do anything to earn it.
I joined Goldfinch in Arbroath, after flying to Edinburgh and spending a pleasant few hours there strolling in the sunshine along the Royal Mile. Bryan, Mike and Des met me at the station in Arbroath and we went to a pub for dinner. On the way we passed a bar that was obviously having a karaoke night, where the strains of 'Sunshine on Leith' were being belted out with gusto. Dinner was, of course, an Arbroath smokie: not being a big fan of smoked fish I approached with caution, but was delighted by the delicate flavour.
The next day we said goodbye to Des and set out for Stonehaven. For a couple of hours we had a fine sailing wind and Goldfinch showed what she could do with the breeze forward of the beam. Unfortunately we were heading for Norway, so eventually we had to turn on the iron donkey and start motoring in a direction that actually brought us closer to our destination. The wind was a good force 5 or 6, with white-caps on the waves, and it is fair to say it was an uncomfortable passage.
Shortly before arriving at Stonehaven we passed the ruins of Dunottar Castle - almost invisible until you are quite close to it, being made of the same stuff as the rocky coastline. There is a school in Reigate (skipper's old home town) named after this castle.
Stonehaven itself (by the way, the locals seem to pronounce the name 'St'nHAVen') is a charming town with a pretty harbour. We tied up against the harbour wall, and the friendly harbour-master took our lines and pointed out the facilities. From the harbour itself it looks like a tiny place, but there is a substantial town further inland. There is also a little museum called the Tollbooth, which used to be a jail. It is full of Stonehaven miscellany, including an ancient Decca Navigator position-finding system from before the days of GPS, which a local fisherman took time to explain to me. Quite a lot of time, in fact.
In the pub Bryan and I met Mo, a friend of Debbie and Bryan's who lives nearby. Mike was back on board cooking up yet another delicious supper.
On Tuesday we left Stonehaven at a comfortable time in the morning and set out for Peterhead. The voyage started with some good sailing but once again we were forced to fire up the donkey and motor to windward. The sea-state was a lot more peaceful than the previous day, but the weather was grey and cold and the passage had little to commend it other than we arrived at our destination safely and in good time. En route we passed Aberdeen and encountered substantial shipping - both fishing-boats and industrial vessels.
Peterhead must once have been a picturesque harbour. It even has a sandy beach. Now it has been overwritten by the shipping and infrastructure of the oil industry. The marina entrance is hard to see in the wide harbour, but once we were inside it we were greeted in by a friendly harbour-master who called me Captain and shook me by the hand. He even gave us rough directions to the nearest pub - a mile away in the town centre. The town was obviously once quite grand, with substantial stone houses, but has a somewhat down-at-heel look now. In the pub we were greeted by another friendly local, this time one who had been enjoying the inn's hospitality on a grand scale. He claimed to be the best karaoke singer in town, but the evidence he produced did not back this claim up.
Which brings us almost up to date. Today (Wednesday) is 24th June, traditionally Midsummer's Day. The weather seems not to be aware of this fact: it is grey, far from warm, and occasionally rainy. We have had a day off sailing today. I took the opportunity to get on a bus and visit Crimond, a little place about five miles away which is famous for having a well known tune named after it, usually sung to the words of The Lord's my Shepherd. I was met at Crimond by a friendly lady who showed me round the church and told me some of the history.
Must go now, it's my turn to cook supper.
Mark here - temporarily awarded the title of Sailing Master, though I've yet to do anything to earn it.
I joined Goldfinch in Arbroath, after flying to Edinburgh and spending a pleasant few hours there strolling in the sunshine along the Royal Mile. Bryan, Mike and Des met me at the station in Arbroath and we went to a pub for dinner. On the way we passed a bar that was obviously having a karaoke night, where the strains of 'Sunshine on Leith' were being belted out with gusto. Dinner was, of course, an Arbroath smokie: not being a big fan of smoked fish I approached with caution, but was delighted by the delicate flavour.
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| Arbroath smokie |
Shortly before arriving at Stonehaven we passed the ruins of Dunottar Castle - almost invisible until you are quite close to it, being made of the same stuff as the rocky coastline. There is a school in Reigate (skipper's old home town) named after this castle.
Stonehaven itself (by the way, the locals seem to pronounce the name 'St'nHAVen') is a charming town with a pretty harbour. We tied up against the harbour wall, and the friendly harbour-master took our lines and pointed out the facilities. From the harbour itself it looks like a tiny place, but there is a substantial town further inland. There is also a little museum called the Tollbooth, which used to be a jail. It is full of Stonehaven miscellany, including an ancient Decca Navigator position-finding system from before the days of GPS, which a local fisherman took time to explain to me. Quite a lot of time, in fact.
In the pub Bryan and I met Mo, a friend of Debbie and Bryan's who lives nearby. Mike was back on board cooking up yet another delicious supper.
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| Goldfinch tied against the harbour wall at Stonehaven |
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| Other local delicacies are available... |
On Tuesday we left Stonehaven at a comfortable time in the morning and set out for Peterhead. The voyage started with some good sailing but once again we were forced to fire up the donkey and motor to windward. The sea-state was a lot more peaceful than the previous day, but the weather was grey and cold and the passage had little to commend it other than we arrived at our destination safely and in good time. En route we passed Aberdeen and encountered substantial shipping - both fishing-boats and industrial vessels.
Peterhead must once have been a picturesque harbour. It even has a sandy beach. Now it has been overwritten by the shipping and infrastructure of the oil industry. The marina entrance is hard to see in the wide harbour, but once we were inside it we were greeted in by a friendly harbour-master who called me Captain and shook me by the hand. He even gave us rough directions to the nearest pub - a mile away in the town centre. The town was obviously once quite grand, with substantial stone houses, but has a somewhat down-at-heel look now. In the pub we were greeted by another friendly local, this time one who had been enjoying the inn's hospitality on a grand scale. He claimed to be the best karaoke singer in town, but the evidence he produced did not back this claim up.
Which brings us almost up to date. Today (Wednesday) is 24th June, traditionally Midsummer's Day. The weather seems not to be aware of this fact: it is grey, far from warm, and occasionally rainy. We have had a day off sailing today. I took the opportunity to get on a bus and visit Crimond, a little place about five miles away which is famous for having a well known tune named after it, usually sung to the words of The Lord's my Shepherd. I was met at Crimond by a friendly lady who showed me round the church and told me some of the history.
Must go now, it's my turn to cook supper.
Sunday 21 June 2015
Sunshine on Leith
Friday 20th June
The weather seems to be following a regular daily pattern of starting with an unwelcome northerly, which then moves round by lunchtime and then dies off in the afternoon. Today was no exception. We left Eyemouth and headed north into a lumpy sea and under a low overcast. However by about eleven and when we were halfway across the Forth, the sun broke through and the wind came round to give us an excellent sail for the rest of the way. The coastline is really rather beautiful with rounded
green hills and sandstone cliffs.
We arrived mid afternoon in Arbroath. Another fishing port, this time with a reasonably straightforward entrance. Unfortunately a tyro powerboat owner came alongside and smacked into our topsides just as we were enjoying a post trip cuppa. A scrape rather than any major damage but nevertheless annoying. Apparently his 'throttle levers were sticking'...
Dinner on board included the delicious and obligitary Smokie which everyone enjoyed.
We now have a couple of days in harbour while we wait for our new crew member Mark to join us. Sadly, our 'Bosun' Des leaves us for home and work on Monday. His expertise and enthusiasm will be much missed.
The weather seems to be following a regular daily pattern of starting with an unwelcome northerly, which then moves round by lunchtime and then dies off in the afternoon. Today was no exception. We left Eyemouth and headed north into a lumpy sea and under a low overcast. However by about eleven and when we were halfway across the Forth, the sun broke through and the wind came round to give us an excellent sail for the rest of the way. The coastline is really rather beautiful with rounded
green hills and sandstone cliffs.
We arrived mid afternoon in Arbroath. Another fishing port, this time with a reasonably straightforward entrance. Unfortunately a tyro powerboat owner came alongside and smacked into our topsides just as we were enjoying a post trip cuppa. A scrape rather than any major damage but nevertheless annoying. Apparently his 'throttle levers were sticking'...
Dinner on board included the delicious and obligitary Smokie which everyone enjoyed.
We now have a couple of days in harbour while we wait for our new crew member Mark to join us. Sadly, our 'Bosun' Des leaves us for home and work on Monday. His expertise and enthusiasm will be much missed.
Wednesday 17 June 2015
Goldfinch in Scotland
Another early start this morning. We left Amble at 5.30 am to continue north and passing by the Farne Islands with their spectacular bird populations and on to Lindisfarne where we had hoped to anchor overnight. Unfortunately a pessimistic weather forecast ruled out this idea and we had to content ourselves with a slow 'fly-by'. Another day perhaps.
In fact, the predicted southwesterly didn't materialise and we motored most of the way to Eyemouth. Fortunately the engine seems cured of its incontinence after our ministrations at Amble and performed admirably.
The entrance to Eyemouth harbour is 'interesting'. A very narrow channel between hard prickles upon which the surf was breaking, and then through a narrow gap between two breakwaters. The rocks to the north are named "Hairy Ness" and the nearest and scariest one "Hard Rock". No kidding...
Eyemouth itself is very much a fishing port and we tied up in the middle of an attractive small town with old red sandstone buildings. There is just a tiny sprinkling of tourism and everyone is very welcoming. This seems to be a common theme of the trip so far. There is a small selection of shops and a 'serious' chandlery whuch sells massive shackles and anchors for trawlers rather than the usual selection of boutique yottie clothing.
We are just planning our next move. This will either be to Anstruther (accidentally called 'Ann Summers by Mike - I think he has been at sea too long!) or direct to Arbroath where we will be making some crew changes. In any event, a day off is called for tomorrow (Wednesday) and we will decide later.
Off for a pint o' heavy and a deep fried Mars bar.
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| Mike at Lindisfarne |
The entrance to Eyemouth harbour is 'interesting'. A very narrow channel between hard prickles upon which the surf was breaking, and then through a narrow gap between two breakwaters. The rocks to the north are named "Hairy Ness" and the nearest and scariest one "Hard Rock". No kidding...
Eyemouth itself is very much a fishing port and we tied up in the middle of an attractive small town with old red sandstone buildings. There is just a tiny sprinkling of tourism and everyone is very welcoming. This seems to be a common theme of the trip so far. There is a small selection of shops and a 'serious' chandlery whuch sells massive shackles and anchors for trawlers rather than the usual selection of boutique yottie clothing.
We are just planning our next move. This will either be to Anstruther (accidentally called 'Ann Summers by Mike - I think he has been at sea too long!) or direct to Arbroath where we will be making some crew changes. In any event, a day off is called for tomorrow (Wednesday) and we will decide later.
Off for a pint o' heavy and a deep fried Mars bar.
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| Mike & Des on a walk from St Abbs Head to Eyemouth |
Monday 15 June 2015
The Amble scramble
Because of some annoying misinformation about bridge opening times we were late leaving Whitby, and to make matters worse, exited the harbour into some of the largest rollers I have encountered in this boat. Fortunately the seas looked a bit smoother further out and so we pressed on.
The wind continued as the rare north easterly which has been a hallmark of the trip so far. This further slowed our progress, and although by early evening we were sailing well in sunshine and calm seas it begain to look doubtful that we would be able to reach Amble in time for the tidal 'window' we needed to enter.
Fortunately, this coast has many alternative harbours available and we decided instead to head for Sunderland which was only an hour off our course and easily accessible. I'm delighted to report that the natives there are friendly and hospitable and that the Harbour Master really did say "Whaye aye man" in response to my questions over the radio! We passed a quiet night at his marina and headed on to Amble the following morning.
After a couple of hours motoring, the wind picked up a little from the South and we were able to hoist "Heather" (don't ask!) our cruising chute sail. This made for a very satisfying run until we reached Coquet Island and turned to head into Amble harbour. Amble (also known as Warkworth) is a very pretty small town with a castle which we plan to explore tomorrow.
Shortly after arriving, we learned that an elderly man on a nearby boat had fallen down a hatchway and was thought to have broken several ribs. I thought for a moment that my first aid skills were going to be put to the test, but another bystander turned out to be a Theatre Nurse so I was happy to be outranked!
The wind continued as the rare north easterly which has been a hallmark of the trip so far. This further slowed our progress, and although by early evening we were sailing well in sunshine and calm seas it begain to look doubtful that we would be able to reach Amble in time for the tidal 'window' we needed to enter.
Fortunately, this coast has many alternative harbours available and we decided instead to head for Sunderland which was only an hour off our course and easily accessible. I'm delighted to report that the natives there are friendly and hospitable and that the Harbour Master really did say "Whaye aye man" in response to my questions over the radio! We passed a quiet night at his marina and headed on to Amble the following morning.
After a couple of hours motoring, the wind picked up a little from the South and we were able to hoist "Heather" (don't ask!) our cruising chute sail. This made for a very satisfying run until we reached Coquet Island and turned to head into Amble harbour. Amble (also known as Warkworth) is a very pretty small town with a castle which we plan to explore tomorrow.
Shortly after arriving, we learned that an elderly man on a nearby boat had fallen down a hatchway and was thought to have broken several ribs. I thought for a moment that my first aid skills were going to be put to the test, but another bystander turned out to be a Theatre Nurse so I was happy to be outranked!
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| Whitby from the Cook Museum |
Friday 12 June 2015
Wells to Whitby
We had a really excellent overnight sail from Wells. A decent breeze of the right strength and from the right direction and a smooth sea. Oh yes, and the sun was shining too! The highlight was eating Mike's excellent boat-made shepherds pie while watching a gorgeous sunset. This is what we signed up for!
Goldfinch is really sailing at her best at the moment. We were quickly up to max speed and she kept this up until the wind died right off sometime during the night. That said, she has a minor engine glitch which we are going to have to deal with soon...
We arrived at Whitby rather early but were fortunate to catch an unscheduled swing-bridge opening into the Marina where again the staff are extremely helpful. A relaxing day and maybe a bit of sightseeing is planned. Whitby is of course "Dracula Central" and it was an unhappy coincidence that we learned of the death of the great Christopher Lee* just as we arrived. We shall commemorate his passing in a fitting way with a liquid lunch!
* Thanks for the correction John B. I was getting my Draculas in a twist!
Goldfinch is really sailing at her best at the moment. We were quickly up to max speed and she kept this up until the wind died right off sometime during the night. That said, she has a minor engine glitch which we are going to have to deal with soon...
We arrived at Whitby rather early but were fortunate to catch an unscheduled swing-bridge opening into the Marina where again the staff are extremely helpful. A relaxing day and maybe a bit of sightseeing is planned. Whitby is of course "Dracula Central" and it was an unhappy coincidence that we learned of the death of the great Christopher Lee* just as we arrived. We shall commemorate his passing in a fitting way with a liquid lunch!
* Thanks for the correction John B. I was getting my Draculas in a twist!
Tuesday 9 June 2015
Wells-quite-long-way-from-the-Sea-really
We are now at Wells-next-the-Sea. A rather lovely place but one I haven't been to for many years. It is accessed by a longish approach channel and only accessible near the top of the tide.
We left Lowestoft at 9:30 pm yesterday and headed out into a choppy and windy North Sea just as it was getting dark. It didn't look like it was going to be a pleasant night at sea, and so it proved. We had a headwind virtually all the way and this meant motoring. The swell produced a corkscrew motion which wasn't nice, but we settled down for the long haul, each of us taking breaks for catnaps occasionally.
Because we had motored, we found ourselves arriving off Wells at about 8 am and much too early to get in. In fact we could see the approach channel buoys lying flat on the sand! This meant that we had to circle around outside for a couple of hours until the tide was high enough to get in. Everyone was extremely tired at this point.
Around 10 am the Harbour Master came out in a launch to guide us though the tricky approach channel, and what a rollercoaster ride it was! There were quite sizeable rollers breaking all around us as we twisted and turned our way in with seemingly only inches to spare at times. Scary stuff!
Some time later we were able to tie up at a visitors pontoon right in the heart of this beautiful old town. A short sleep, a good hot shower and some excellent fish & chips, and all is well with the world again.
A day off is scheduled for tomorrow.
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| Wells Quay |
Monday 8 June 2015
D Day
Well in our case D = Departure day. And strictly speaking it was the historical D Day+1, but I did take a moment to think of my late Father driving his tank landing ship up a French beach all those years ago. This one is for you Dad.
Anyway, we left Ipswich as planned in the afternoon and headed down to Harwich harbour where we moored to a buoy to await the north going tide. At this point I regret to report our first (and hopefully only) casualty, as the telescopic boat hook slid into two parts at the crucial moment. The hook end has now been consigned to the deep.
Later, at what my aforementioned Dad would have called "Oh gawd double oh", but was actually 3am, we headed out northwards. After a short period of motoring in the darkness the sun came up and with it, a decent sailing breeze. Very decent in fact, as Goldfinch was quickly up to her maximum speed and kept this up for nearly all the rest of the trip. It was,in short, a superb sail in lovely bright sunshine. Perfect.
We are now in Lowestoft, about which little can be said other than it is geographically convenient. We leave again this evening for an overnight trip to Wells Next the Sea, which we expect to be rather nicer.
Anyway, we left Ipswich as planned in the afternoon and headed down to Harwich harbour where we moored to a buoy to await the north going tide. At this point I regret to report our first (and hopefully only) casualty, as the telescopic boat hook slid into two parts at the crucial moment. The hook end has now been consigned to the deep.
Later, at what my aforementioned Dad would have called "Oh gawd double oh", but was actually 3am, we headed out northwards. After a short period of motoring in the darkness the sun came up and with it, a decent sailing breeze. Very decent in fact, as Goldfinch was quickly up to her maximum speed and kept this up for nearly all the rest of the trip. It was,in short, a superb sail in lovely bright sunshine. Perfect.
We are now in Lowestoft, about which little can be said other than it is geographically convenient. We leave again this evening for an overnight trip to Wells Next the Sea, which we expect to be rather nicer.
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